Catwalk Report: Ann Demeulemeester




With a running look of floor-skimming silks and multi -stranded leather belts, Demeulemeester comments, "There is such duality in a butterfly; the hard spine and the delicate wings." Her inspiration came from the "structure and movement" of a butterfly which translated in to lengthy sleeves and nipped in waists.
The opening look of Demeulemeester's S/S13 collection, shown at Paris Fashion week, was a heavily layered, black, trouser/jacket ensemble, which created a cocoon-like effect. The collection seemed to strip off, leaving super short-shorts and ending in a Japanese esque, flighty number, showing a butterfly's changeable state.
Four almost identical evening dresses in metallic shades were seen in the middle of the line up, showcasing the colour palate of the collection. Although dominated by black, the collection also included flashes of midnight blue, mint green and chunks of white. Metallic silver was seen in the form of three similar blazer-coats paired with either capri pants, shorts or a bare chest. Unbeknown to Demeulemeester's typical aesthetic, bare legs were also seen among numerous looks of this collection.
A strong, reappearing look for this collection was Demulemeester's experimentation with leather, appearing in the variating forms of thick waist belts and harnesses with dangling strands, echoing the hardened rib cage of a butterfly.
This collection was a ghostly rendition of Demeulemeester's AW12's show which was described as a cross between 'Edward Scissor Hands and Black Swan' by RedOnline.co.uk. With the model's long straight hair split in to three sections, deep brown eye shadow and the dark, thick eye brows creating a ghoulish look. 

LOVE K